Lanai Snorkeling

Once again the wife and I took the Pacific Whale Foundation's Lanai Wildside snorkel tour to the coast of Lanai. We were fortunate as the weather cooperated and the waters were clear. I absolutely love snorkeling Lanai since the water does tend to be clearer (thanks to less development), you get to see things like the Triangle Butterfly fish and pods of spinner dolphins you don't normally see off the waters of Maui, and the underwater topography can be very interesting. If you're a good free diver, there are plenty of caves and sea arches to challenge yourself. Below is my video of the trip, shot in Go Pro HD. Below that are other good videos that give you an idea of Lanai's great snorkeling. 

Snorkeling 101

You’re finally ready to go on your Maui vacation but you’ve never actually snorkeled before. Here’s a guide to help you prepare for your new favorite water activity.

Your Gear

This includes your mask, snorkel and flippers (and if you’re me, Speedo hand flippers which provide me with greater mobility in the water and allow me to swim faster). Your mask can be either be one large optical piece or the more common two eye piece divided by the nose cubby, which I think is more comfortable. At any rate, your mask should stick to your face when you breathe in gently through your nose and not cause pressure on the bridge of your nose or your forehead. Your snorkel should be attached to the head strap of your mask and can go on either side of your head (what side it is on only really matters for divers). When you put your mask on when you’re on dry land, the top opening of the snorkel should be behind your head. The bite guard goes fully in your mouth. It takes some getting used to the first time you try to breathe with this gear on since you cannot breathe through your nose, but most people adapt quite readily. If you get water in your snorkel while swimming, most snorkels have a purge valve that will clear the water if you forcefully breathe out. Next are you flippers which should be able to fit snuggly on your feet so that they feel like they will not fall off, but not so tight that they look like they are cutting off your circulation. If possible, it is best to get fins that have an adjustable heel strap to avoid sizing problems. You can snorkel without fins, but I don’t suggest this unless you are a naturally strong swimmer. You can go further, faster, with less fatigue wearing flippers than without. You may see some people with particularly large fins; these people are advanced snorkelers who are able to free dive; larger fins are not necessary for beginners. If you have any reservations about how well you’re going to float in the water, it is best to take a noodle, inner tube, boogie board, or some other floatation devise with you. These devises will also help keep you afloat if you have to make any adjustments to your gear while out in the water. Additional gear may include your mask de-fogger which prevents your mask from fogging up, especially when there is a significant difference between your body temperature and the water temperature. Spit is fine but needs to be re-applied often. I recommend a 10-1 solution of water to baby shampoo; the shampoo is bio-degradable and will not harm the coral or fish as much as other product such as sunscreen. I do not believe in wearing sunscreen into the water as this is very harmful to coral and other marine life. Instead, I prefer to wear a full length shirt and bike pants or a dive suit. I can only ask you do the same in order to protect Maui’s fragile ecosystem. When you finally do get in the water, keep your eyes faced down or just slightly ahead of you and try to keep your fins in the water while moving your legs. Keeping your flippers in the water minimizes slashing, which may potentially be misconstrued by a shark as a fish in distress. Last thing to know if you are a beginner, never go in the water alone. Hopefully, this is common sense.

Ocean Safety

When it comes to the ocean, the first rule is to keep your eyes on her. If the wind is kicking up and you see white caps, it is not a good idea to go in the water. Although you are level with the waterline, high winds can make it tough to swim, even with flippers on. Three to four foot waves are larger than normal for Maui’s beaches (not included well known surf locales such as Jaws) and generally indicate that the water near shore will probably be murky due to churning sand. Sharks tend to hunt in murky conditions, so it is not wise to swim or snorkel near shore when the surf is “up.” (Note: sharks also tend to hunt during the dawn and dusk hours; another time it in not wise to snorkel.) Sometimes, waves come in that are larger than normal during times the surf is otherwise calm. These are simply wave sets that come three to five a set. So, if it looks too rough to get in, try waiting a few waves and see if the surf calms down. Many beginners put their gear on while on the beach and “duck walk” or “moon walk” into the water which is fine. I say it is easier to wade into the water waist deep and then put your gear on, but this is a personal preference. Try it both ways. Once in the water, the second most important rule of the ocean is not to panic. This is easier said than done and you might have to literally tell yourself to calm down if you get in trouble. Panicking only makes bad situations worse. Fortunately, serious situations are few and far in between. If the wave action kicks up while you are away from shore and this bothers you, try turning your body perpendicular to the waves. This will minimize how much you get bounced around.

Other Ocean Rules

Please don’t touch anything! This applies mostly to turtles and coral. Countless times I have seen people try to touch turtle. Getting too close to turtles on your terms disturbs a turtle’s behavior and causes them stress. Many turtles are used to humans, though, and do not have a problem with you getting close, but let them do so on their terms. As a general rule, give them at least 10 feet and let them approach you, not the other way around. I might also mention that it is technically illegal to touch a turtle here in Hawaii, just so you know. People standing on coral is another huge problem. Visitors do not seem to realize that coral consists of live creatures and cannot withstand the slightest force of someone standing on them. This is probably the number two reason why the coral around Maui has been looking worse and worse over the last few years (the other reason being snorkel and fishing boats that come too close to shore and waste run-off from construction and hotels). And while we don’t get many jellyfish around Maui, you’ll certainly want to stay away from any kind of black sea urchins, which you will see as either a small ball or a fist-sized series of spikes. Don’t touch these either; their spikes carry mild neuro-toxins which cause their flesh wounds to heal very slowly.

Best Beaches for Snorkeling

Finally, which Maui beaches are best for snorkeling? That depends upon who you ask and the weather conditions, but most locals would agree that Honolua Bay (which doesn’t have a beach per se), Black Rock (too crowded for my taste), Poolenalena Beach, Makena Beach (the one in front of Makena Beach and Golf Resort), and Ulua Beach are certainly among the top-ranked.

Last Words

That’s the basics of snorkeling. Have fun and enjoy your stay but always be safe. We look forward to seeing you year after year.

Honolua Bay, Maui

When all things are considered, Honolua Bay (north of Kaanapali) is often ranked as the best snorkeling spot on Maui. Regardless of unpredictable weather in the winter months which can bring high surf, clouds and/or rain, the usually well-protected Honolua Bay is the top place when conditions are right. Though, if it has rained overnight at this location, the water will be murky due to run-off from the surrounding cliffs. Otherwise, the fun begins even before you get to the bay as you descend through the jungle paths that are teeming with fierce…roosters and chickens. Okay, maybe not so fierce but they can be loud, making the walk down to the bay amusing.

When you do reach the bay, you’ll notice there is a little bit of sandy beach to your left and the rest of the bay is lined with boulders. Since most people snatch up the sandy spot right away, prepare to boulder hop until you find your own little niche. (I hope you have good balance; I’ve twisted my ankle a few times here.) Personally, I always find a spot to camp on the boulders to the right of the bay (if you’re facing out to sea) since the middle of the bay is where the concrete ramp is and tends to crowd. Surely the concrete ramp makes it easy to get in and out of the water; getting in from either side of the bay off the boulders can be quite slippery, to say nothing of the sea urchins that like to hide between the rocks. At least you won’t have people sitting on top of you, though. Moreover, if you enter the water from either side of the bay, you will not have to go as far to get to the coral and you will see fish the second you put your head in the water. You can rest assured that the fish count at Honolua Bay is almost always high.

While the fish count is high, you’ll see a better variety of fish to the right side of the bay where there is also more colorful coral (although the coral has been taking a beating in the past few years due to the snorkel cruises using this spot more often). The coral to the left of the bay is not quite as good but the fish tend to be much bigger on the left side of the bay. There’s really nothing quite like being surrounded by a school of fish half your size; it’s pretty amazing. You will also see larger turtles on the left side of the bay as they eat algae off the rocks. The middle of the bay is sandy and there’s usually not much to see unless you run into the large school of small silver and green fish that are being corralled by some larger blue fish. But in addition to the fish and turtles, eels and octopi are also common here. (Octopi can be hard to spot as the blend in with the rocks.) I have also seen squid and “crown-of-thorn” starfish (rare) here. Yes, further out in the bay are white tip reef sharks but they are docile unless you actively bother them. Even then, they are more likely to run away than fight. I have even seen pods of dolphins come into the bay in the afternoons, but not while people are in the water. Note that it is also possible to swim around the left side of the bay to Slaughterhouse Beach, but keep in mind that the currents can be unpredictable, especially in the winter.

Honolua Bay is also good for beginning divers and even surfers when the waves kick up near the outer edge of the bay’s right side. Mind where you are; the surfers will run you down if you get careless and stray into their territory. There is no lifeguard but there are portable potties at the parking area. The parking spaces fill up quickly during most of the year so it is best to get to the bay before nine in the morning. If the weather is good, people always snatch up the best parking spots so you may have to park on the side of the road. I personally hate doing that since I don’t want to entice any of the smash-and-grabbers common to the area. This is to say, please don’t leave anything remotely valuable in sight when you leave your car.

Directions

Honolua Bay is in Kapalua, northwest Maui, on Honoapiilani Hwy between the 32 and 33 mile marker. There are two main parking areas, one right past Slaughterhouse Beach (this is the beach with a staircase down to it) and one right past the one lane bridge which is the bigger of the two parking areas. Otherwise, parking is on the road. From there, take whatever obvious trail leads towards the water. When you reach the water, a gentleman sitting at a table will ask to talk to you and ask you not to wear sunscreen in the water since Honolua Bay is a fragile marine preserve.

Boss Frog’s Frogman II Molokini Snorkel Tour

We certainly got up early for this one since all the reviews I’ve read about snorkel tours out of Maalaea indicated that the parking lot at the harbor fills up fast. We arrived 20 minutes before boarding, though, and parking was easy to find on the far side of the harbor, which meant a three minute walk to the slip. No big deal.

After checking in we found a nice place inside the cabin to sit, though it’s just as nice outside and upfront by the catamaran’s trampoline. The crew had placed some morning eats out which I have to admit were tastier than I expected. I think I eventually ate about half of all the little pieces of cinnamon cake they had. Fortunately, I had time to digest my “breakfast” as the ride out to Molokini took a bit over 45 minutes, time during which the captain was entertaining enough in recanting the ship’s strict rules and pointing out landmarks.

When we got to the crater, we were once again reminded to stay between the boat and the crater wall and not to stray too far to either side where other boats may come in. This resulted in 50 people trying not to kick each other as we got up close and personal with a school of black fish. Unfortunately, there didn’t seem to be much going on below the surface other than the black fish, and while the visibility is a good distance inside the crater, I didn’t find the coral all that remarkable. The water at Molokini is also noticeably colder than it is near shore, so be aware of that. That being the case, I would advise bringing your own wetsuit or rent one from the crew.

So between the crowd of snorkelers and the lack of marine activity inside the crater, I wasn’t all that impressed. I was more impressed by lunch, which featured cold cuts and drinks that weren’t half bad. We probably stayed at Molokini for 45 minutes, then shoved off for Turtle Town.

What you need to know about Turtle Town is that the location of Turtle Town varies by tour boat; it’s basically wherever the captain says it is which in this case was off Wailea Point. And we caught conditions on the right day as the water was warm and calm at Wailea Point with several turtles to be found. But the reality is, on a good day it would be easy to snorkel to the site where the boat stops halfway between Wailea Beach and Polo Beach. This stop was as good as any other, I suppose, but you needn’t book a snorkel tour to experience it.

After leaving Wailea Point came the best part of the trip, whale watching on the return the Maalaea Harbor. The whales were quite active today and we got a good view of several whales while remaining a respectful distance away. (The same cannot be said for many kayakers and paddleboarders.) Another word of advice: the surf conditions during the return towards Maalaea is often choppy, as winds change by the time you’re four-five hours into your trip. If you’re at all prone to sea sickness or don’t know if you are, please take Dramamine before getting on the boat! You’ll be doing everyone and yourself a favor.

All things considered, this snorkel tour was better as a whale watching tour and if it weren’t for the crew who were all professional, courteous, and entertaining, I may have minded. I wasn’t impressed by Molokini what with the amount of snorkeling I’ve done in my life and turtle town was okay, though I’ve seen more turtles elsewhere. At about $70 per person, I feel we only got our money’s worth because of the whales. If it weren’t whale season, I would have said don’t bother going to Molokini.

Kamaole Beach I, II, II

Kamaole Beach I, panoramic view

Kamaole Beach in South Kihei is actually three beaches separated by rocky points. Kamaole Beach I – the northern most beach – is the best of the three, given its length and width. Kam I is also the best of the three beaches for snorkeling where either end is good though the northern point is slightly better in terms of coral. To be frank, though, I generally do not like snorkeling the northern end of the beach (which is also known as Charley Young Beach for reasons I don’t understand since it’s technically the same beach…). That is because locals often fish from the rocky area on the north end of the beach and I get nervous about getting caught in their lines. Although I’ve never heard of that happening, I’d just a soon not be their first human catch-of-the-day. Kam I has a parking lot right off the road on the beach side but this parking lot is small and fills up quickly. Chances are you’ll either have to park on the street or in the dirt patch across the road. Either way, you’re still very close to the beach. And, if you get hungry or need a drink, there is an ABC store right (convenience store) across the road at the Chevron gas station.

Kamaole Beach II, north looking south

Kam II is a different story. It’s much shorter than either Kam I (but still bigger than Kam III) and doesn’t have any personality in my opinion. The rocky point on the south side of the beach is still good for snorkeling but that I think is all Kam II has going for it. That and Fred’s restaurant/Moose McGillycuddy’s bar is right across the road, if that can be considered a good thing. There is no parking here other than road side parking.

Kam III is okay but this less protected beach (due to the less pointy rocky ends) makes it prone to stronger currents than its companion beaches. As such, it’s not as good for snorkeling but is better for boogie boarding when the surf is a little up. Kam III is instead defined by its large lawn towards its south end, making it a good place for a picnic or to toss a ball or Frisbee around. It’s not uncommon to see locals holding huge birthday parties here. On weekends, you’ll almost always see a bouncy castle for the kids here, as well as the Maui “wrestling club” wrestling early in the morning, and a prayer service on Sunday mornings. [I admit I have always secretly wanted to get in on the wrestling action but am rightly afraid the locals will kick my ass with prejudice. For me then, the prayer service should be held before the wrestling group meets.] As with Kam II, there is only road side parking here.

Kamaole Beach III, panoramic view

What I like about the Kam beaches collectively is that because it’s all vacation rentals and locals in this area, you don’t get the snootiness that sometimes rears its head down in Wailea. The Kam beaches are also better for sunsets than the Wailea area beaches since you get a better look at Molokini due to the angle of these beaches and you get a better look at whales during whale season from the Kams. Although all three beaches are very close to the road, you rarely hear the traffic. When you do, it’s usually because you’re at Kam II.

All three Kamaole beaches have lifeguards and bathroom facilities.

DIRECTIONS: Right off South Kihei Road between the Chervon gas station and the Kihei Boat Ramp. Can’t miss ‘em.

Keawanaku Beach, South Maui

This is a beach in south Maui hidden south of the lava fields of La Perouse Bay. It is sometimes referred to as ‘Death Beach’ by my wife due to the large, dead, bleached pieces of coral that she thinks looks like skulls against the beach’s black and green sand. It’s very secluded here; not many people visit this beach since it’s only accessible by hiking in or by boat. The people who do go here usually appear later in the day it seems. I’ve been to this beach at least half a dozen times and have only seen a small handful of people in the morning hours, when is when I usually go (since the winds really pick up around La Perouse Bay after 10am or so). Chances are if you come here early, you’ll be by yourself. That can be a good thing or bad thing – good if you just want to sit quietly in the sun or shade of the trees, or bad if you try to swim here. Fact is, of all the times I’ve been here I’ve only seen the water calm enough to enter once. Unfortunately, I did not have my snorkel gear with me. Too bad, because the underwater topography and fish you can see from up on the rocks to the left side of the beach look like it would make for amazing snorkeling. The right side, though, I wouldn’t go near even if the water was calm seeing how one rogue wave would smash you against the jagged rocks. (The wave action tends to push water into the rocks on the right and drives that energy across the beach – not safe! And, if you get in trouble out here, help is a long ways off.) Still, I love going to this beach since it is quiet and secluded and even mostly protected from the trade winds that blow through this area 99% of the time. If you want to see a nice slide show video of this beach, click here for Hawaiian O’Brian’s site.

 

Directions: From La Perouse Bay, hike along the shore to the south/left. You’ll eventually come to a lava field where ahead of you, you will see some trees WHICH IS NOT KEAWANAKU and a rock wall on your left. Turn left through the wall before you walk into that tree-y area (which hides its own rocky beach, fyi) and about 100 feet in turn right at the sign so that you’re on Hoapili Trail/King’s Highway. This rocky ‘highway’ can have loose footing but believe me, it’s nothing compared to walking through the lava field itself. (You did bring footwear you don’t care about, right?) Go about .75 miles on this trail and to your right you’ll see the beach. You can’t miss it; it’s an oasis in the lava field. Turn right on one of the worn paths to the beach. Oh, one more thing, BRING WATER and maybe some food. There ain’t no civilization out this way.

Ulea Beach and Mokapu Beach, South Maui

Ulea Beach and Mokapu Beach: (It’s really just one beach separated by a few trees and a bit of lava) I’ve somehow managed to miss visiting this beach until late 2012. I didn’t know what I was missing! This is a fantastic beach that fronts several luxury condos in the Wailea area. At about a quarter mile long featuring good views of Molokini and Lanai, the swimming here is fantastic, particularly in the middle of the beach where it is sandy and as long as you stay within the confines of the rocky points. The snorkeling is great, too; both ends feature beautiful coral and a high fish count. Now, I’ve heard people argue that the north end of the beach is better for snorkeling but personally I’ve had better luck finding turtles and eels around the rocky point to the south. I have also found that the further out you go, the stronger the current and wave action is at this beach, though I don’t know why that would be. (Most south Maui surf is pretty safe most of the time. I don’t know what’s different here.) The north end of the beach is popular with divers, so be aware of that if deciding to set up camp at this end. As for the little spit of sand called Mokapu Beach on the north side of Ulua Beach, I can’t say that I find it is anything to talk about other than it connects you to Keawakapu Beach if you want to take about a mile long walk along the beach(es). There is another walkway above the beach, a paved path that extends past this beach north to the southern end of Keawakapu Beach and south going past the Grand Wailea to the Fairmont Kea Lani. This path, known as the Wailea Beach Path, is about 1.5 miles from end to end.

I will inform you that this beach gets crowded, especially on the weekends. Now keep in mind that this beach has only one small parking lot for its public access. So if you want to come here from outside Wailea you’ll want to get here by nine in the am to snag a spot. From the parking lot then, it’s a short walk to the beach. There’s a rinse off area and restrooms between the parking lot and beach but there are no lifeguards here.

Driving directions: Drive south on Wailea Alanui Drive. Make your first left past all the construction for the Andaz hotel (still under construction as of Jan. 2013). Welcome to Ulea Beach’s small parking lot. If you see the Shops at Wailea, you’ve gone past the parking lot. If driving north on Wailea Alanui Drive, it’ll be your second beyond the Shops at Wailea. 

Maluaka Beach, South Maui

Maluaka Beach, south end looking north

Maluaka Beach is without a doubt, one of my favorite beaches in the world. Sometimes called Makena Beach – which is incorrect; Makena Beach aka Big Beach is further south – is a nice stretch of white sand that fronts the Makena Beach and Golf Resort. I like this beach because during the week it’s usually not crowded at all and as such, is generally quieter than most Maui beaches. Yes, sometimes a snorkel tour boat roars and lands itself smack dab in the middle of the beach to pick tourists up, but that’s usually as loud as it gets. And of course, the earlier you get to this beach the quieter it is. (Get there before 10am and there’s hardly anyone ever here.) This beach has a small amount of shade on its south end where a tree shadows a lawn overlooking the beach and has a small cluster of trees shadowing the rocky point at the north end.

What’s best about this beach is the snorkeling; it’s simply great for beginners and intermediates. The water is usually tame here unless the trade winds are kicking or it has just rained, which can make the water murky. As with any beach, the surf can be a little cloudy near shore anyway but usually the further you go out, the clearer the water becomes. As a snorkeler, you’ll want to head to either end of the beach’s rocky points, though I feel the south end of the beach is way better in terms of coral and the chance to see turtles (which is not to say the north end of the beach is not worth snorkeling). But, if the water is too rough for snorkeling and you still want to splash around, just grab your boogie board. I never go to the beach without one, even if I just use it to sit on or put my gear on.

Lastly, since the ocean is usually agreeable in south Maui, particularly in the winter months, the waters down this way are good for kayaking and paddleboarding. You can rent kayaks and stand-up paddleboards from the activities kiosk near the south end of the beach, but it’s much cheaper to rent gear from places like Maui Dive Shop, Snorkel Bob’s or Boss Frog’s and bring those items yourself.

Oh, I almost forgot! If you want to explore a bit, walk the rocky shoreline towards the south and you’ll find a black sand beach. If you’re thinking about going up and over that red hill you see here (Pu'u Olai), keep in mind two things 1) The slopes are very steep on this side of the hill and 2) on the other side of the hill is Little Beach, where nudists frolic. You’ve been warned!

Maluaka Beach, north end looking south

Driving directions: Assuming you’re not staying at Makena Beach and Golf Resort, drive south on Wailea Alanui Drive. If you want to go to the north end of the beach, veer to the right onto Makena Road. [If you miss the turn you can turn right on to Honoiki Rd, then left onto Makena Road.] When you see Keawalai Congretional Church on your right, immediately past that you will see a parking lot on the left. Parking is free and there are restrooms here. Then, keep walking down the road a few hundred feet until you see the beach access on your right. [Note: If bringing a lot of gear to the beach, you may want to drive to the access point and drop the stuff off with whomever you came to the beach with.] If you want to go to the south end of the beach, you can actually keep walking down the road until you get to a paved path that crosses in front of the hotel, or drive to the other end (recommended). To do that, go past the initial right onto Makena Road and take the next right onto Makena Road, which is past several roadside vendors. This road will take you to another free parking lot which you will see on your right, or there are a few slanted parking spaces near the turn around point a few feet further on. Walk the path toward the hotel, then turn left when you see the beach. There are restrooms at the entrance to the beach, too.