Makawao Forest Reserve Hike (and Bike)

Let’s say you want to go on a hike but not deal with the danger presented by lava fields, streams, waterfalls or cliffs. Nor do you want to be brutalized by the Hawaiian sun while you enjoy yourself. Hikers rejoice; the Makawao Forest Reserve trail (Kahakapao Recreational area) is for you!

Not to be confused with a MUCH shorter Waihou Spring trail a little bit to the west, the Kahakapao Recreational area in the Makawao Forest provides what amounts to a non-technical 6.2 mile walk in the woods through slightly varying terrain that rarely exceeds a 10 degree incline. This isn’t a particularly exciting trail visually speaking; it’s simple forestry with no views of the ocean as you can see from my pictures. (This is probably why it took me a while to get around to this hike.) Since this area is upcountry, it is definitely cooler than the coastal region and as such is prone to more rain. So, there is the occasional bit of mud to whet your whistle if you’re into that sort of thing. For the casual hiker, this is probably your best bet on Maui.

The trail is a loop trail with bike trails that for the most part parallel it (they occasionally cross paths.)

Haole in a tree.

Since the eastern/clockwise part of the loop is a little less steep – not that 7-10 percent incline is steep – my wife and I elected to go this route. Upon concluding the trail, I also felt that this side of the loop is a little more scenic and quieter as well, as some houses can be found across a ravine on the western portion of the trail.

While you may certainly hike, be aware that this is trail is equally well-known for its mountain biking, so watch out for downhill racers who aren’t on the specifically designated bike trails. While we didn’t see any more bikers than we did hikers, the bikers don’t always bother with the bike bells offered at the trail head so keep your eyes and ears peeled. Besides straight and speedy down-hills for bikers to enjoy, they also have a children’s and novice warm-up areas and ramps and such for more advanced bikers to enjoy.

Overall, this trail is relaxed in its meandering with the wonderful scent of eucalyptus trees in the air. Personally, I will be headed back to this trail but with my bike so I can add at least a small element of danger. Either hiking or biking, this is a quaint little place.  

Directions: From Paia, take Baldwin Ave. up the mountain into Makawao. At the first major crossroad in Makawao, hang a left onto Makawao Ave (where there’s a Mexican restaurant across the street on the corner). Travel east, and take the right immediately after the cemetery – this is Piiholo Rd. When you see a gated park on your right there is a fork that goes to the left; take this left fork. Follow this windy road until you have to make a right onto Kahakapao Rd. Keep going until you go through the yellow gates and you will soon make a right into a gravel parking lot.

For a map of what I am talking about, click HERE.

For a map of the trail, click HERE. 

Biker getting warmed up.

More advanced biker warm-up area.

Haleakala Hiking

The team and I headed into the crater for two days, staying first at Kapalaoa Cabin then Paliku Cabin. The weather was clear most of the time and warmer than usual. We got a good view of the stars the first night, not so much the second night at Paliku. Best part of the trip, though, we know where the cave is.

Here's a link to the video. 

What say you, NeNe?

Lanai Snorkeling

Once again the wife and I took the Pacific Whale Foundation's Lanai Wildside snorkel tour to the coast of Lanai. We were fortunate as the weather cooperated and the waters were clear. I absolutely love snorkeling Lanai since the water does tend to be clearer (thanks to less development), you get to see things like the Triangle Butterfly fish and pods of spinner dolphins you don't normally see off the waters of Maui, and the underwater topography can be very interesting. If you're a good free diver, there are plenty of caves and sea arches to challenge yourself. Below is my video of the trip, shot in Go Pro HD. Below that are other good videos that give you an idea of Lanai's great snorkeling. 

Waihee Ridge Trail

To my shock and horror, I was looking at my list of blogs and discovered that I had not yet reviewed Waihe'e Ridge Trail - bad haole! Bad! That said, here is a review of said trail that is a tad north of Wailuku, east of Kahului in Maui.

I'll begin by saying that this is a hike suitable for just about anyone provided you can get past the first two hundred feet or so of concrete road that climbs about a 30% incline. So, yeah, just about anyone can do that though it's an auspicious way to begin a hike. Rest assured it is the toughest park of the hike...provided the rest of trail isn't wet. 

While Waihe'e Ridge Trail is a relatively easy five-miler round trip when it is dry, wet conditions make this a bit more challenging without hiking sticks. (And the trail is wet most of the time, even in summer.) After the concrete road you'll find yourself under a canopy of trees and a whole lot of exposed tree roots underfoot. Eventually you'll come to some viewpoints of the valley on one side and the more scenic Waihe'e Valley on your left, which - when it is clear - is a wonderful view. (Be warned, though, all three times I've hiked this trail it has been cloudy which detracts from the view, in my opinion.) After the viewpoints you'll eventually hit the cloud line where the trail gets even wetter than it probably already is, thus reminding me more of hikes on Kaui than Maui. You'll climb muddy switchback after muddy switchback hoping to see a waterfall to no avail. (The closest waterfall you can get a glimpse of is across a valley on either side of you.) 

By the time you hit the 2.0 mile marker, you begin to wonder if this hike is worth it. Well, it is if you just like hiking, but honestly there are many hikes on Maui that are most interesting as you can see in my video below. There is no payoff when you reach the top of the trail; just some water to splash in that surrounds a dilapidated picnic bench up in a cloud. You might want to rest here for a few minutes and ponder how annoying it will be to get down off this hill if you don't have a hiking stick. 

This is a convenient hike - not to mention inexplicably popular hike - if you just happen to be out Wailuku's way, which is to say I had other business this day and that's why I agreed to the hike. Frankly, I would have rather done 13 Crossings just a little further up the road, but my wife doesn't like to walk in streams. Sigh. 

Directions: Take Highway 32 / Kaahumanu Ave. west of Kahului until you reach Highway 3400 right after Kahului Harbor. Turn right here and go north to Hwy 330, about three miles. Turn right on Highway 330 and continue until it becomes Highway 340 at mile marker 2. At 9/10 mile past mile marker 6 is Mendes Ranch on the right. Turn left here on to a gravel/unimproved road and it is approximately 1 mile up hill until you reach a small gravel parking area.

Marriot's Te Au Moana Luau

The Te Au Moana (which apparently means “The Ocean Tide”) luau was a tough decision. With my mother visiting, she insisted on a luau despite opinions that such entertainment on the island is kitschy at best. Whether you’re reading reviews of Maui’s various luau’s – Te Au Moana, The Old Lahaina Luau, the Grand Wailea’s Honua`ula Luau – on Trip Advisor, Yelp, etc., reviews are scatter-shot to say the least. So, we settled on the luau closest to home, the Marriot’s Te Au Moana luau.

We arrived early, a little after 4pm to ensure ourselves good seating as many reviews I read complained of crowds and winding up in the back row. (Frankly, there really isn’t a bad seat here; you’re either close to the stage or close to the bar and the dessert area. That’s a win-win situation to me.) That turned out not to be an issue and my family wound up in the second row and were seated with a lovely family from Colorado and some newlyweds from Palestine. That’s a good mix of people, ever so fortunate since we found ourselves waiting about an hour for the bar to open and waiting another half hour or so after that for the buffet to be set up. Speaking of the bar, the drinks (mai tais and pina coladas) were included with the price of admission (around $90 per person with our local discount) and were surprisingly tasty and strong, especially the mai tais.

Nice and liquored up, the pig was eventually dug up from a pit adjacent to the bar area. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see the pig being dug up as guests seated closer to the pit where to ones up close and crowded those of us from the front rows out. Not really a big deal, though, as the pig was then paraded through the middle of the grounds. The buffet was ready to go soon thereafter, and tables were called to approach the buffet in a nicely organized manner. As for the food itself, there was something for everyone but was mostly neither here nor there taste-wise. And, except for the pork and poi, the food offerings were not particularly Hawaiian.

As dinner wound down after about an hour, the show was ready to begin. Unlike the Old Lahaina luau, the Marriot’s luau is geared more towards dances from across Polynesia and featured the retelling of creation

myths that were compelling, though ultimately contradictory. Fortunately, love stories are a requisite as well, despite the manner in which they always wind up tragically. After various story-telling and dancing*, children were invited up to the stage to learn some hula which I though was adorable though I don’t particularly like children. Then, audience members were selected to learn some dance moves on stage which was hilarious. Problem is, I don’t think either of these segments of the show lasted long enough. Maybe the fire-dancer, up next, had to be home early. Who knows? But I do give serious props to the fire dancer despite a misstep or two. He was a blast to watch and his segment did go on longer than I thought it would. Still, the entertainment portion of the luau lasted less than 90 minutes.

[* - I read a review in which someone – very frustrated or repressed – complained that the dancers were grinding too much. This is a ridiculous observation if one has any understanding of 1) how important family is to Hawaiians and 2) human biology and the origin and point of dancing in the first place.]

Was it all worth the near $100 for the luau? If you take into consideration the mark-up on all goods and service in Hawaii, the price should be about something you would expect. And while this is my first luau, I don’t think there will be any more now that I am well versed in Hawaiian legends. This is to say the luau was a good experience but not so much that I feel the need to ever do it again. Frankly, I’d rather be in the luau, playing with fire.

Leis are offered free shortly after check-in. Men have the option of receiving a fish hook necklace. Parking is free in their parking structure which is to the left as you approach the valet area. Have your parking ticket validated by the luau staff when you check in. 

Secret Hike, Maui

My buddy and I went on a hike the other day that was quite enjoyable. I could tell you where it is but given the recent crackdown on hikers in Hawaii lately*, the most I can tell you is that it is along Hana Highway between mile markers 1 and 40 and may or may not be end at O’Opuola Point. It is a place apparently only locals know or will tell you the location of when they are plied with enough alcohol and pizza. I’ve heard of it referred to as the “Huka to the Puka” hike and “Puka Hike” but since there is virtually no info on this besides some Youtube videos, the designation is clearly made up, no doubt named by stoners who got lost in these parts. (The resulting trail was worn by their attempts to get back to Hana Highway, which they would have easily found had they headed in the opposite direction from the ocean. That’s my guess.)

[* “Too many” hikers are getting hurt or dying on hikes on private and government land, thus prompting law enforcement to act. Nevermind that way more people die just driving around here, or get bit by a shark, or die swimming/snorkeling, or get hurt stepping on sea urchins. Nevermind there is inherent risk every time you leave your house. Go after the hikers. That’ll teach everyone!]

At any rate, the trailhead – marked by any one of a million nondescript gates in the area – takes you through about 20 minutes of low lying jungle branches before opening up to a view of a rocky outcropping and a small rocky beach in a valley below to your right. There is a spur trail that apparently leads down to that beach, but

my buddy and I did not explore it this day. (You can’t see that beach in my video here, but it’s there.) As we neared the rocky outcropping, the terrain gets steeper and ropes are involved. The rope work here makes the Chutes and Ladders rope climb look like child’s play and if you don’t have decent upper body strength, climbing back out – especially near the bottom near the exposed lava rocks – is going to be a minor headache. (The ropes, mind you, are exposed to the elements out this way and are a bit rough on the hands, so you might want to take gloves.) Fortunately, it was dry this day and the ground cooperated. Frankly, I cannot see doing this hike in wet conditions due to the steepness of some of the trail and many exposed plant roots, to say nothing of dealing with wet rocks if you’re not wearing water shoes. I was not this go ‘round.

When we got to the bottom, we worked our way towards the left and around the corner to a sea cave. If the

surf is not up, you can swim across the ‘channel’ to the other side. I have seen a video in which some young men swam into the cave and were jumping off the rock therein and, no surprise, someone had to be medi-choppered out. Don’t be stupid; respect the ocean or something will go wrong. If you do elect to swim across the ‘channel,’ there are olivine pools and a very cool lava archway around the bend to the left. There is another beach you can see from the archway, but it doesn’t look as inviting as the first one I mentioned.

Having gone early, my buddy and I had the place all to ourselves though on the hike out we did run into some more people, evidence of the trail’s growing popularity. I hope they had fun and no one got hurt. And remember, pack it in, pack it out. Respect the land. Aloha.