Don't Feed the Fish!

It's summer in Hawaii and unfortunately tourism is up almost double-digits in 2017, even at this time of the year. While I have nothing against tourists per se, the chances of a tourist doing something they shouldn't be doing are equally as likely as a tourist enjoying the Hawaiian islands responsibly. Sometime, though, the irresponsibility goes too far.

Poolenea Beach has long been one of my favorite beaches but it seems that within the past year there has been a great deal of trash and beach gear left behind by thoughtless people. Today, I found not one but TWO bags of 'fish food' floating in the waves...

STOPPP ITTT!

One, turtles find plastic alluring. They think it is a jellyfish and try to eat it which winds up choking them to death. Two, if you need 'fish food' to get sea life to come near you, maybe you're doing something that is making them stay away in the first place. Three, feeding the marine life upsets the natural balance of the ecosystem. Yes, many boating tour operators do it and they are wrong to do so, so please don't compound the problem. Four, DON'T LEAVE YOUR GARBAGE FLOATING IN THE OCEAN! I can only imagine how such people live. Oh, that's right, your maids clean up behind you! Disgusting behavior.

The second most horrible thing tourists do is use spray-on sunscreen and then jump right in the ocean. One, every study done has concluded that rub-on lotion is far more effective. It is especially more effective if you let it soak into the skin for a few minutes because if you get right in the ocean, the sunscreen comes off! Do people REALLY not realize this? Two, the sunscreen is hazardous to the marine life. I have personally witnessed the decline of Maui's reefs and sunscreen is one of the causes. It's really not hard to put a rash guard on, but I guess if you're using spray-on sunscreen, you are a really lazy SOB. Three, no one around you who cares a wit about their health wants to breath that aerosol garbage! I don't know how many times I've been involuntary misted. So IF you're going to put it on, do it away from other people 'cause I'm done being nice about it.

Okay, rant over. Enjoy your vacation.

ARRRRGGGHHH!

5 Caves / 5 Graves - Makena, Maui

The proper entrance to the 5 Caves area.

I haven’t been posting much lately, probably because I have been snorkeling at 5 Caves / 5 Graves so often in recent months, ever since my buddy and I ran up on a mermaid here. (I’m not kidding, there was a young woman wearing a mermaid costume swimming here.) This is currently my favorite spot to snorkel – next to Maluaka Beach – and ever since pollution and warm seas have bleached the coral in Honolua Bay.

Featuring two long – one of them currently healthy – fringing reefs, this location is a hot spot for coral, turtles, eels and well-fed fish, the latter thanks to the tour boats which inundate this area. Manta and eagle rays have been spotted from time to time in this area, too. Harmless white-tip sharks can also be seen here on occasion as you snorkel. I’ve never seen one here myself, but many people have reported seeing them.

As these reefs also features caves – hence the name – it is popular with divers just as much as it is popular with snorkelers. As a mediocre free-diving snorkeler myself, there is only one cave I know the actual location of that is midway along the northern reef as it juts out to sea,

The 'beach' that front the house. Respect their privacy, please.

but can usually be found by the air bubbles emanating out of the coral as divers enter the cavern below. According to anecdotal evidence, though, the whole area around here is rife with caves and there is a sea arch or two along the southern reef. To find turtles, either skirt the rocky shoreline (carefully) or follow the northern reef straight out and go a bit to the left (towards the southern reef) between where some tour boats park; there is a turtle cleaning station there to enjoy if you don’t mind crowds. Keep in mind to watch out for kayaking tourists that pass through this area on your way out, since they are unlikely skilled enough to avoid running you over if you get too close to them.

If you don’t care to snorkel and just want a nice spot to sit and watch the water, the northern reef will provide you with a seat from which you will inevitably see a turtle or ten.

Entrance is from a small rocky cove or from Makena Landing further south, from which you will have to swim north along the shoreline to get to the 5 Caves area.

My video of this location is below at the very bottom.

Directions: Head south on Piilani Hwy to the very end. Turn Right onto Wailea Ike Rd. Turn left at Wailea Alanui, go 1 mile to its end. Continue left onto Wailea Alanui which becomes Makena Road. Continue on Makena Rd. Turn right about 1/2 mile to stay on Makena Road. Continue about a 2000 ft. til you spot cars on the left and park. Follow the path next to the house toward the water. You can also continue further down and park at Makena Landing Park, which has a sandy entrance and a bathroom. This will add 20 minutes to your swim, though.

Park on the left, follow trail where the rock wall is.

The Turtles of Five Caves (& A Mermaid)

10 Frequently Asked Questions About Maui

Is nudity allowed on public beaches? If you are by yourself or with someone who will not be offended by your nudity, then yes. Otherwise, no. Refer to my blog on this typically Hawaiian law.

What’s the weather like? Due to Maui’s geography, there are several distinct climates. Maui’s west and south sides (Ka’anapali and Kihei/Wailea/Makena, respectively) are typically sunny, dry and hot, though global warming seems to be changing that. Northern and eastern parts of the island, like Hana and north of Ka’anapali, tend to be warm and wetter and more ‘tropical’ looking. Up on the mountain of Haleakala, it is cool to cold and often dry at the summit. Unless you’re hiking in her crater, moving to stay warm, or from Canada, you might want to wear something more than shorts up there.  No matter where you go, the sun is strong whether or not there are clouds in the sky. As for surf conditions, southern shores tend to be calmer in the winter months. In the summer months, north shores tend to be calmer. BUT, never count on these things. This isn’t Disneyland. Nothing is guaranteed.

What does ‘aloha’ mean? ‘Aloha’ is the real life equivalent of the word ‘smurf.’ It is usually used as a warm greeting or to refer to being kind, though it can mean just about anything depending upon who says it and the tone in their voice. For people in the service industry, ‘aloha’ is sometimes synonymous with “What do you want now?”

Where is ‘Turtleville/Turtle Town’? If you’re looking for that one spot where ALL the turtles go, where all those tour boats promise to take you, I’ve got news for you: There is no single Turtle Town. ‘Turtle Town’ is merely a catch-all term for where you might be more likely to see turtles more often than not. Usually, these are coral locations one- to two-hundred meters off shore in 20 to 30 feet of water. Each tour boat company has a particular place (or places) they go and will tell you its Turtle Town. Don’t be fooled. You don’t even need to take a tour boat if you’re a good swimmer or unless you simply don’t know where to find turtles.

Is the road to La Perouse Bay a one way road? I’m throwing in this question because it seems a tourist and her family of bicyclists were recently under the impression that the road down to La Perouse Bay is only supposed to travel north as far as cars are concerned. The mother yelled at the driver in front of me that they were on a one-way road and that we (the vehicles) were all going in the wrong direction. Now, I don’t know how this person thinks residents and tourists get back and forth from La Perouse Bay, but I assured her it was not by bicycle alone. Had she been observant, she would have noticed there are no one-way signs anywhere to be found near this southern point on the island. I understand her desire for safety when riding her bike on a narrow road, but she should be educated on the fact that locals really don’t care about sharing the street. Nor do tourists from places like China know about our right-of-way laws, a country in which bicyclists are actually considered a nuisance. Best to stay off the road down to La Perouse Bay, then. You are warned.

Is there any nightlife on Maui? That depends on what you mean by ‘nightlife.’ Maui basically shuts down at 9pm, but there is nightlife if you know where to go. There is not a whole lot of places to dance, though Cassanova’s in Makawao sometimes had electronic DJ’s. Dancing can also be had at Ambrosia’s in Kihei late at night, but be warned that it is a gay-friendly bar if you are a Republican. Live music, on the other hand, can be found all over the island but mostly in Lahaina and Kihei’s ‘The Triangle.’ If you want to karaoke, try just about any bar in Wailuku. Drinking, well, you’d be hard pressed not to find a place to drink in Maui. Consult Mauitime.com for venues and show times.

What are the best beaches? As with most other things on Maui, it depends on what you’re seeking. Ka’anapali Beach is a long stretch of sand on the west side that is usually bustling with activity. At the beach’s very north end is Black Rock, a favorite place for beginning snorklers to snorkel. If you just want to relax in the sun and water without too much bustling, any one of Maui’s beaches south of Kalama Beach Park in Kihei is a safe bet. While mostly a local’s beach on the weekend, Kamaole Beach III in Kihei has a very nice lawn at its southern end that is wonderful for sunset viewing.

Are there any sharks in the waters around Maui? Yes, Maui has more shark attacks than any other island. These are typically Tiger shark attacks. The white tip sharks you can sometimes find near shore are small and harmless unless provoked, and even then they are more likely to run away from you. While sometimes these attacks are fatal, they are rare and you stand a much better chance of many other bad things happening to you on any given day. You can minimize the chances of a shark attack by not swimming in the dawn or dusk hours and not swimming in cloudy or murky water. Also, get a good tan; pale white skin looks like the kind of fish sharks like to eat.

What kind of sunblock is best? Waterproof or water-resistant sports sunblock is best. Spray-on sun-block is horrible, both for you, the people around you, and the environment, especially when you spray it on and immediately jump in the water which washes it right off. (Can’t tell you how many times I see this happen.) DO NOT USE SUNBLOCK IN HONOLUA BAY! The coral there is dying and any chemicals in the water will make the situation worse.

Anything else I should know? Yes. Don’t stand on the coral; it is a fragile lifeform that takes decades to grow. Do not touch turtles and give them at least 10 feet of breathing room. (It is illegal to touch them, btw.) Do not feed the fish. Watch out for sea urchins near shore; they hurt like a mother. Do not expect to walk into any business and expect service right away; ‘island time’ is for real. Use GPS and flipping pay attention to it. Drive with aloha (see above).

Lanai Snorkeling

Once again the wife and I took the Pacific Whale Foundation's Lanai Wildside snorkel tour to the coast of Lanai. We were fortunate as the weather cooperated and the waters were clear. I absolutely love snorkeling Lanai since the water does tend to be clearer (thanks to less development), you get to see things like the Triangle Butterfly fish and pods of spinner dolphins you don't normally see off the waters of Maui, and the underwater topography can be very interesting. If you're a good free diver, there are plenty of caves and sea arches to challenge yourself. Below is my video of the trip, shot in Go Pro HD. Below that are other good videos that give you an idea of Lanai's great snorkeling. 

Snorkeling 101

You’re finally ready to go on your Maui vacation but you’ve never actually snorkeled before. Here’s a guide to help you prepare for your new favorite water activity.

Your Gear

This includes your mask, snorkel and flippers (and if you’re me, Speedo hand flippers which provide me with greater mobility in the water and allow me to swim faster). Your mask can be either be one large optical piece or the more common two eye piece divided by the nose cubby, which I think is more comfortable. At any rate, your mask should stick to your face when you breathe in gently through your nose and not cause pressure on the bridge of your nose or your forehead. Your snorkel should be attached to the head strap of your mask and can go on either side of your head (what side it is on only really matters for divers). When you put your mask on when you’re on dry land, the top opening of the snorkel should be behind your head. The bite guard goes fully in your mouth. It takes some getting used to the first time you try to breathe with this gear on since you cannot breathe through your nose, but most people adapt quite readily. If you get water in your snorkel while swimming, most snorkels have a purge valve that will clear the water if you forcefully breathe out. Next are you flippers which should be able to fit snuggly on your feet so that they feel like they will not fall off, but not so tight that they look like they are cutting off your circulation. If possible, it is best to get fins that have an adjustable heel strap to avoid sizing problems. You can snorkel without fins, but I don’t suggest this unless you are a naturally strong swimmer. You can go further, faster, with less fatigue wearing flippers than without. You may see some people with particularly large fins; these people are advanced snorkelers who are able to free dive; larger fins are not necessary for beginners. If you have any reservations about how well you’re going to float in the water, it is best to take a noodle, inner tube, boogie board, or some other floatation devise with you. These devises will also help keep you afloat if you have to make any adjustments to your gear while out in the water. Additional gear may include your mask de-fogger which prevents your mask from fogging up, especially when there is a significant difference between your body temperature and the water temperature. Spit is fine but needs to be re-applied often. I recommend a 10-1 solution of water to baby shampoo; the shampoo is bio-degradable and will not harm the coral or fish as much as other product such as sunscreen. I do not believe in wearing sunscreen into the water as this is very harmful to coral and other marine life. Instead, I prefer to wear a full length shirt and bike pants or a dive suit. I can only ask you do the same in order to protect Maui’s fragile ecosystem. When you finally do get in the water, keep your eyes faced down or just slightly ahead of you and try to keep your fins in the water while moving your legs. Keeping your flippers in the water minimizes slashing, which may potentially be misconstrued by a shark as a fish in distress. Last thing to know if you are a beginner, never go in the water alone. Hopefully, this is common sense.

Ocean Safety

When it comes to the ocean, the first rule is to keep your eyes on her. If the wind is kicking up and you see white caps, it is not a good idea to go in the water. Although you are level with the waterline, high winds can make it tough to swim, even with flippers on. Three to four foot waves are larger than normal for Maui’s beaches (not included well known surf locales such as Jaws) and generally indicate that the water near shore will probably be murky due to churning sand. Sharks tend to hunt in murky conditions, so it is not wise to swim or snorkel near shore when the surf is “up.” (Note: sharks also tend to hunt during the dawn and dusk hours; another time it in not wise to snorkel.) Sometimes, waves come in that are larger than normal during times the surf is otherwise calm. These are simply wave sets that come three to five a set. So, if it looks too rough to get in, try waiting a few waves and see if the surf calms down. Many beginners put their gear on while on the beach and “duck walk” or “moon walk” into the water which is fine. I say it is easier to wade into the water waist deep and then put your gear on, but this is a personal preference. Try it both ways. Once in the water, the second most important rule of the ocean is not to panic. This is easier said than done and you might have to literally tell yourself to calm down if you get in trouble. Panicking only makes bad situations worse. Fortunately, serious situations are few and far in between. If the wave action kicks up while you are away from shore and this bothers you, try turning your body perpendicular to the waves. This will minimize how much you get bounced around.

Other Ocean Rules

Please don’t touch anything! This applies mostly to turtles and coral. Countless times I have seen people try to touch turtle. Getting too close to turtles on your terms disturbs a turtle’s behavior and causes them stress. Many turtles are used to humans, though, and do not have a problem with you getting close, but let them do so on their terms. As a general rule, give them at least 10 feet and let them approach you, not the other way around. I might also mention that it is technically illegal to touch a turtle here in Hawaii, just so you know. People standing on coral is another huge problem. Visitors do not seem to realize that coral consists of live creatures and cannot withstand the slightest force of someone standing on them. This is probably the number two reason why the coral around Maui has been looking worse and worse over the last few years (the other reason being snorkel and fishing boats that come too close to shore and waste run-off from construction and hotels). And while we don’t get many jellyfish around Maui, you’ll certainly want to stay away from any kind of black sea urchins, which you will see as either a small ball or a fist-sized series of spikes. Don’t touch these either; their spikes carry mild neuro-toxins which cause their flesh wounds to heal very slowly.

Best Beaches for Snorkeling

Finally, which Maui beaches are best for snorkeling? That depends upon who you ask and the weather conditions, but most locals would agree that Honolua Bay (which doesn’t have a beach per se), Black Rock (too crowded for my taste), Poolenalena Beach, Makena Beach (the one in front of Makena Beach and Golf Resort), and Ulua Beach are certainly among the top-ranked.

Last Words

That’s the basics of snorkeling. Have fun and enjoy your stay but always be safe. We look forward to seeing you year after year.

Po'olenalena Beach, South Maui

Poolenalena Beach from the north looking south

After living in Maui for a year, we finally got around to snorkeling Poolenalena Beach. All I can say is, I wish we’d done it sooner. This is a primo spot: Easy entry, a large field of good coral, lots of turtles usually, and uncrowded in the middle of the (southern end of the) beach. The beach is long and sandy, but divided into two parts by a rocky point that is on your right when you walk in from the public parking area. It is also here that many locals park themselves under the trees on the left for a full day of fishing, BBQ’ing, and talk story, so it can be crowded right off the parking lot on the weekends. The most southern end of the beach can be a little crowded too, with people from the condos there, but this is a very minor complaint. As I said, few people set up in the middle of the beach, so there is definitely room if you like some space between yourself and other people. 

The snorkeling itself was great the last two times we went, but make note that the southern end is best, the middle so-so, and the north end (which is the south end of Palauea Beach) is better than average. Entry is easy as again, the beach is sandy with the sand extending at least 50 feet into the water, with the exception of some obviously rocky areas that are easy to avoid. 

Again, the southern end was the best, with numerous turtles since this area is a turtle cleaning station. (With a turtle cleaning station so close to shore, I don’t know why people pay for boat tours that stop here. Lack of research, I guess.) At one point, I’d noted 8 different turtles in less than 15 minutes, to say nothing of the big black fish and eels. And that’s not even going out more than 100 feet from the shoreline! I will say that the visibility the last two times was so-so, but when the sun is out it’s not really a problem. Lots of kayak tours stop and drop off snorklers at the south end of the beach, so it does get crowded for an hour here and there. It doesn’t seem to bother the turtles, though. If you go past the south end to the next beach over, that’s the much hyped Chang’s Beach and frankly, I don’t know what the hype is all about since the coral off Chang’s is really beat up and the fish count is lower, at least when I go that way. Best off staying to the right if snorkeling off Chang’s.

Poolenalena is a criminally under-rated beach, but then, I’ve seen what happens to lesser known beaches when they become popular. Oh, well. Enjoy.

Poolenalena Beach from the South looking north

Directions – South of Wailea Alunui Drive past the Shops at Wailea on Makena Alanui Drive between Wailea Golf Club Dr. & Makena Surf. You will notice a large dirt parking lot on your right (assuming you are driving south). If you can see the water from the road, you’re in the right place. This lot has a sign that says it’s Po’olenalena Park. That helps, too.

GPS Coordinates: 20.663646,-156.441042

 
Facilities: Port-a-potty, shower, no lifeguards.