13 Crossings Trail Maui

Park here.

Go there.

13 Crossings, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways…Actually, while I would say 13 Crossings aka Makamakaole Trail is nice, it isn’t any more interesting than some of the other ‘wet’ hikes around Maui. In fact, if you do like ‘wet’ hikes, the kind of hike you’re going to get wet on, then 13 Crossings is about as easy as they come. (At least until the very end when you have to climb up one waterfall to get to the next. And even then you can climb more ropes and apparently go on and on and on…) The easiness of this trail – 3 miles out and back – makes it less interesting than some other hikes, particularly the wet hikes found along the Road to Hana which often offer ocean views. 13 Crossings offers no such view and the waterfall scenery is tame for a fellow such as myself coming from Oregon. The waterfalls are nice, sure, but that’s all they are. Nice. The pools of water up this way are cool, which is a nice respite from the easy bake oven that is Kihei so it’s not like this hike is without its plusses. Oh, and the trail does have a section of small bamboo forestry which, you guess it, is nice. If there is anything else to note, it’s worth mentioning that if you come to a large boulder

Nice.

forking the stream into left and right paths, go right. You can still go left and you will still be taken to a waterfall and swimming hole, but it’s not the one every other blogger talks about. Actually, it’s a little curious that no one else mentions this fact. Maybe they’ve got better trail instincts as I always seem to find myself going left when I should be going to the right. I’m sure that means something deeper than I am willing to think about.

Wrong waterfall.

Picturesque. That's why I took a picture.

Directions: Go about 1.5 miles past mile maker 6 on Hwy 340; mile marker 7 is MIA. Look for a hole in a fence on the mountain side of the road just before the road takes a sharp bend. Go through the hole and almost immediately begin your first stream crossing. 

Maui Brewing Company, Kihei

[This review is for the recently opened Maui Brewing location on the mauka side of Lipoa Parkway.]

The first thing that will strike you as you drive up Lipoa Parkway to Maui Brewing Company is how massive the building is. Seriously, it looks like an airplane hanger from the outside. That’s because this location is their new state-of-the-art eco-minded brewing location from which they plan worldwide domination. That, and they plan on opening a HUGE restaurant that will surely be to the chagrin of nearby Kono’s on the Green. Until now, I didn’t know buildings this big existed on Maui.

At any rate, the tasting room is really all that is open now, with the owner giving free tours of the brewery when he’s feeling whimsical. (That is, don’t come here expecting to get a tour.) The tasting room features all their brews neatly written on a blackboard over the bar, served

by an emotionally inconsistent staff (more on that shortly). Now, I’m a dark beer man myself and I have to say if you like dark beer, go beyond the already fantastic coconut porter for the Imperial coconut porter. Holy cow, you can chew this stuff it’s so thick! So you grab your drinks and you can grab one of the few seats indoors or you can head out the open bay doors and grab a table for a more communal feel. The view from this patio isn’t all that great; you’d think it be better this far up the road, but, not so much. If you want some grinds though the restaurant isn’t open yet, food carts on the road are currently servicing Maui Brewing’s food needs. So, all’s good. Well, almost.

A few things bothered me here. The female bartenders were unfriendly, the direct opposite of the male bartenders. I don’t know if the ladies are all cycling at the same time or what, but I found this off-putting. Second, Maui Brewing is selling a HydroFlask™ beer growler which clearly does not work. A friend of mine bought one, went through the wringer to get the leaky one he got replaced, and now the replacement doesn’t work either. Beware of the HydroFlask™ beer growler; it doesn’t work, period. Worse, Maui Brewing knows it and is still trying to offload them. That’s not cool in my book. It also doesn’t make sense that I can get almost a full six-pack in the supermarket for the price of one beer in the tasting room when the beer is might on location. Weird.

Still, I love their beers and I’m sure this will be an interesting location once the restaurant opens and the business park this location is part of grows. I’ll probably be back, but only for business lunches I can write off on my taxes.

Open 11 am to 10pm

605 Lipoa Pkwy, Kihei, HI 96753

808.213.3002

Commando Hike Maui, Sort Of

Disclaimer…I do not think just ol’ anyone is capable of doing this hike. The potential for a serious mishap is high. You will slip, fall, cut, scrape, and/or bruise yourself. And the higher the water flow, the tougher the hike is. This hike requires balance, limber joints and upper body strength. If you are not adventure-minded, skip this hike altogether. There is a reason why this hike does not appear in any guidebook.

My buddy and I stopped at the gate just passed the mini-bamboo forest hike, about .25 miles passed the 6.5 mile marker on Hana Highway. We jumped the fence there and trudged up a path to the left, being careful not to agitate the very hefty cow lying in the shade (who would still be there hours later). Other reviewers say you have to pass a field of cows, but we only encountered the one. Then, at the top of the hill we could see a reservoir. We went down a slippery grassy slope to where we could meet a stream feeding into the reservoir. (Meaning, if you’re facing the reservoir, the stream will be towards the left side of it but not passed the gate that will be further on your left on the trail. I suppose you could go around the other side, but that would be a much longer walk.) And on up that stream we went.

Just another 7' high wall in the stream.

Very quickly we learned that neither my hiking shoes nor my buddy’s sneakers would grip the slippery rocks, basically forcing us to spider-walk much of the way upstream. Even as an experienced hiker myself, multiple time we caught ourselves saying, “Are you kidding me?” as we bruised our ankles against rock after rock. Navigating the stream took focus and it got a little bit old fast. I don’t remember how far upstream we got, but at an early point we encountered a fork in the stream. We decided to go left and it turned out to be the wrong way, so, go right at the fork. Of course, we didn’t know that at the time so we kept going upstream to the left, sometimes through 6 feet of water, never seeing the thicket of vines you’re supposed to encounter and wondering when the hell it was going to be over. Eventually we came upon an access road and man-made drainage ditch at that point we knew we were way off course.

Thinking we were screwed, we wandered the access road going downhill, figuring we’d try again some other day. Somehow, we turned left at Albuquerque and stumbled upon the exit of the cave portion of the Commando Hike! We couldn’t believe it. We checked out the

Going DOWN to the cave entrance.

surroundings and our way out was either down a 70 foot cliff or back through the cave, basically doing the Commando Hike in reverse. (A third option would have been to continue down the access road, but we hadn’t thought of that yet.) Since I wasn’t jumping off the cliff we went into the cave and made our way towards where the entrance is supposed to be. I have to say this part of the hike was really fun until we saw the part of the entrance where you shimmy up the 10 foot waterfall and we both refused to go down this way. It just looked too tricky. So, it was back into the cave and out the way we were supposed to go. Again, fun, until my buddy said he was stuck between two rocks where there were no hand holes to lift himself up and out. Somehow he squirmed his way free and we continued up the cave. There is a 10 foot rock wall inside the cave to climb but it was pretty easy since the rocks were rough and easier to grab. (Well, my buddy did slice a finger open on a jagged rock.) Oh, and you will need headlamps for this bit as it is really dark in the cave.

Once we came out the other side, we were quite proud of ourselves. Not only did we go a much longer way upstream than we should have, but we did the cave portion of the Commando Hike down and up. Booyah! But we weren’t done yet. We turned left to a really sweet water hole with a small cliff to jump off. There was an option to grab a rope and climb the waterfall there, but the day was wearing on and we had no water or food with us. Stupid? Yes. We hadn’t planned to be out there so long but apparently shit happens. So after my buddy jumped off the cliff, we went back to the access road, backtracked a little bit, until we could keep heading downhill keeping the hike’s ravine to our left and the ocean in front of us. The car was a blessed sight. Flatbread Pizza Company here we come!

Our little adventure would have been better had we packed food and water in a dry-bag, but hey, there’s always next time. It may be a while but I’m sure we’re game for another go ‘round. Also remember to go right at the fork in the stream. You can thank me later with a brew. Cheers.

80's Night at Gannon's, Wailea

You would think that given all the information on the Internet, there would more reviews about Maui nightlife. It is true that there isn’t a great deal of nightlife on Maui such as you would find on the Mainland and this is due to the fact that vacationers mainly come to the island for the beaches. Between this fact and the time difference between Hawaii and the rest of the world, Maui is generally a quiet place after 9pm. Not always, though. Outside of the well-known “Triangle” in south Maui’s Kihei – The “Triangle” being a collective of several bars – some Wailea and Makena restaurants occasionally turn themselves into a dance venue. During the summer months, once a month, Gannons in south Maui itself hosts “Gannons After Dark: The 80’s in Wailea.”

First, the facts: Gannon’s is located up a hill on 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr. The cover is $10 a person or $15 a head if you want to reserve a table. There is plenty of free parking. The event begins at 9pm and goes until 1am, which for Maui, might as well be more like 4am. Once inside, you will notice how spacious the venue is as most of the restaurant’s tables have been stored away, leaving a few tables surrounding the dance floor and outside on the lanai (patio). This is a breath of fresh air as it allows you to actually get to the bar without much trouble. On the other hand, there are some tables too close to the dance floor which cuts down on the actual dance floor area; the “dance floor” itself is actually quite small by Mainland standards. The crowd was mostly locals; about 80% by my estimations, with ages ranged from the 20’s to 50’s. The rest of the crowd was comprised largely of vacationing 20-somethings doing the bridal shower thing or looking to get out of their hotel rooms and away from their families. The drink prices are about what you would expect for this ritzier part of the island though surprisingly not all that insane. This is Hawaii after all.

The experience: My group arrived shortly after the party started at 9pm and by the time we walked in the dance floor was already hopping. It appears as though the locals take full advantage of any nightlife down this part of the island and I don’t blame them. We were also surprised to see how many people actually took the time to dress up in their 80’s paraphernalia: You had your aerobic junkies and jocks, preppies, Madonna-wannabes, neon-clad girls, metal-heads, etc. Actually, so many people put some effort into what they were wearing it made the people who weren’t in costume seem silly in comparison even if those people were dressed nicely. (Of course, I’m sure no one goes on vacation expecting to pack an 80’s costume, especially since Hawaii has long maintained a psychological connection to the 70’s.) The crowd was friendly and few people in this setting thought twice about striking up a conversation just for the sake of it. Unfortunately, as the hours and alcohol wore on, a few people did get out of control on the dance floor which was small enough to begin with. As The 80’s in Wailea seems to be a popular event, I would advise Gannons to back the tables away from the dance floor a little more. It just seems odd that given the amount of space available to the venue that they would try to box in the dance floor so much. (However, one suspects a more crowded-in dance floor makes for better photo and video opportunities.) Now that I think more about some of the tables being so close to the dance floor, I would advise against reserving a table as people are simply going to put their drinks down wherever they can find space, whether your table is reserved or not. If you really need to sit down, there were plenty of unreserved tables outside on the lanai.

Meanwhile, the music, supplied by local boys DJ LX and emceed by Jay J, was passable enough despite some early technical glitches. And I personally would have enjoyed the music more if they would have let more songs pay all the way through. It’s just as a musician myself, well, I probably pay too much attention to these things and maybe shouldn’t criticize. But I will definitely give DJ LX credit for mashing up several songs and giving a few of them some much needed backbone with some extra beats and bass. That aside, how much fun this event is doesn’t rely much on the DJ but rather the already high enthusiasm of the patrons going in. All things considered, I can’t wait for the next retro-80’s party at Gannons. I’ll be there; just look for one of the ten guys in zebra-striped pants.

Totally gettin' rad here!

Fabiani's, Wailea Maui

A view from the bar.

Being Italian (Sicilian actually), moving to an island in the middle of the Pacific may not have been the best idea when my native food cravings occur. Aroma D'Italiano's may have been the go-to place up until two years ago, but since that restaurant closed there had been a dearth of reasonably palatable Italian food, to say nothing of the lack of edible pizza on Maui in general. That all began to change with the arrival of Fabiani's Pizza and Bakery a year and a half ago (as of this writing) in Kihei. Driven by the success of Fabiani's Kihei location, Fabiani's has opened a second location in Wailea, an area that is essentially the Beverly Hills of Maui.

Found at the north end of the Wailea Gateway Plaza building at the southernmost end of Piilani Highway, Fabiani’s Wailea is not usually busy. This may be due to the fact that the new location is still gaining traction amid stiff competition from Monkeypod Kitchen across the parking lot and Manoli’s Pizza a very short distance down the road. Although those restaurants are perfectly respectable, there is something about Fabiani’s that feels a little more like home.

Despite being located in Wailea, this Fabiani’s location does not go out of its way to wow its customers with expensive décor. This may seem like a negative given that this location does not have a view of the ocean (although Wailea Gateway Plaza is located on a hill), but what stikes me about this Fabiani’s is that it is clean; very, very clean. Granted, this may be because it is new, but having been in the military, I respect cleanliness.

“But what about the food?” you ask. Although the pizza menus differ slightly between locations, there is something for everyone on each menu. And, if you don’t see a pizza you like, you are given the option to build your own. Here at the Wailea location, my brood usually opts for the Real Hawaiian (Pineapple, Portuguese Sausage & Caramelized Onion) or the Makena Meaty (Portugese Sausage, Ground Beef & Applewood Bacon). It should be noted that the pizzas are basically personal-sized if you take into account what is a typical portion for most Americans. All of Fabiani's pizzas are thin-crusted, too. So, if you’re really hunger, a single pizza may not satisfy you. This is okay, however, as there are many other choices.

There is, of course, lasagna. I can’t say Fabiani’s lasagna will knock your socks off, but I do think it is the best I’ve had on Maui in the last two years. It’s not overly salty, though, which may displease some customers. If you would like a little seafood, there will be the catch of the day which is entirely dependent upon the fish market; you simply cannot expect that Today’s Catch will be a really good fish such as Mahi Mahi. There are always the crab cakes, too, but again, they’re not something that is going to bowl you over. If you’d like a little garlic bread for an appetizer, they come four to plate and are very buttery and garlicky. Overall, I cannot see anyone walking into this restaurant and saying there is nothing on the menu they would order. Even if they did, hopefully they saw the dessert display when they first walked in which is immediately to the left. All the desserts are made by the owner’s wife for both Fabiani’s locations. If the Red Velvet Cake and the various macaroons are any indication, everything else in the display case is magnificent.

Service-wise, you have to keep in mind that Maui’s population is transient to say the least, so you have to take any bad service with a grain of salt. This is not to say I’ve ever had bad service at either Fabiani’s, in fact, just the opposite. But, I have to keep this fact in mind about Maui service just in case the service ever does slip. Currently, there is an Irish girl waitressing whose voice I could listen to all day, but she is going back to Ireland at the end of summer. Then there is a new bartender, a “mixologist” by his own account, who should be able to step it up when it comes to devising incredible cocktails. This is good news to a Portland, OR transplant such as myself.

Lastly, the prices at Fabiani’s are more than reasonable given the location they are catering to (entrees will be anywhere between $13 to $25). This location also has an unlisted Happy Hour from 3-5pm which gives you half off the pizzas plus you do not have to sit at the bar to get Happy Hour prices, unlike their Kihei location (where Happy Hour is only at the bar).

Overall, Fabiani’s Wailea is a cozy-casual, family-run business that delivers on most accounts. My biggest complaint is that they do not have a view. On the other hand, here on Maui, you generally get what you pay for and the prices reflect a room without a view. However, if you have been at the beach all day, does that really matter?

Delicious Fabiani's pizza.

Deserts!